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Hai Van Pass

From Saigon, we flew to Hue. After landing, we travelled north past Danang and through the Hai Van Pass.

Okay.

The reason one goes on an adventure like this is for unforgettable experiences. Believe me when I say that a car ride through the Hai Van Pass qualifies exponentially.

It started out innocently enough. A hired car with a driver and a guide. Us relaxing in the backseat enjoying the view. It was all fantastic.....until...

We realized that no one told us that this was a mountain. And that the car would wind up twisting, hairpin curves (through clouds) for more than an hour. Gut-wrenching. We started to get car sick about halfway up. I kept my face stoic, but inside I was begging for sweet mercy. Gulping air. Closing my eyes. Nothing worked. It was the equivalent of being hungover on a playground roundabout - after receiving a punch to the head...from Mike Tyson in his prime.

Blessedly, the car finally stopped at the top of the mountain. We reached and opened our respective car doors, and were immediately descended upon by vendors:

"Oh, you are soo tall and soo handsome."

"Oh, you are soo good-looking."

"Oh miss, you are soo beautiful. Your hair is soo nice."

"Oh, you are soo big and handsome."

I was totally caught off-guard. I'd never heard cheap wares peddled in this fashion. False compliments. Wow.

It was depressing and disappointing. And I felt selfish for feeling that way.

Here we were at the top of a mountain with a spectacular view. But it was tough to relax and enjoy it because....some people were trying to make a living. Damn.

My wife did her thing. She went away with a few of the ladies and listened to their sales pitch. I trekked away a little and looked at an old us army bunker that was riddled with bullet holes. The entire time, I couldn't stop worrying that I'd step on some old mine or grenade.

When I got back to the car, we decided to leave. I couldn't get rid of the feeling I always had in the Helsinki fish markets. That I wanted to be a billionaire. To buy everyone's wares and send them home to be with their families.

Sadly, the mountain did not provide solitude nor solace.



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